"The Spice Islands" by Lisa Grainger


Matemwe is on the last strip of sand before the beaches give way to cliffs on the dry north-east coast of the island, which feels very unspoilt (in neighbouring Matemwe village, people still make their living from fishing and selling coconuts). The retreat, which opened in June 2011, is adjacent to the less smart but equally charming Matemwe lodge. It consists of four private villas built in the 1970’s by two Swedish sisters and recently revamped by the new, South African – owned Asilia safari chain. It is honeymoon heaven here.

Overlooking a shallow, rocky lagoon fringed by a coral reef, the double story thatched villas are wonderful for hanging out in a hammock on your balcony, or taking a dip in your private rooftop pool while watching fleets of dugout canoes and the dhows sail the tide.
Meals are brought to your veranda once you’ve discussed with your butler what you’d like to eat (perhaps a fresh prawn cocktail served in a spicy poppadum, followed by fish and salad, and a creamy lemon-curd ice cream). Villa fridges are stocked with drinks and ice; the rooftops have shaded banquettes for snoozes with a book; and there are ocean views from the pond-sized tadelakt baths and big beds.

The lodge next door has a relaxed bar, pool and spa if you fancy company, and if another walk on the blinding-white beach doesn’t appeal, the laid back dive staff will take you out for a reef-walk at low tide to explore pools, or snorkeling in a traditional dhow.

Upsides: The luxury resort of Mnemba Island lies just beyond the reef, and although the island itself is private, its waters are public – and its reefs are among the best in Zanzibar. The sea is an absurdly clear, pale aquamarine, turning to sapphire then inky blue.

Downsides: At low tide the sea is too shallow to swim in (three to four metres lower than at high tide)

We have an exciting new property recently added to our portfolio: Matemwe Beach House.
Both Matemwe lodge and Matemwe retreat have opened freshly renovated for the beginning of the season, with improvements been made on the entire premises, from the beach up to the bar and pool area.

Our revamped WaterSports centre will host our own dive master and equipment from 5Star PADI certified One Ocean Centre, as well as fantastic water sports equipment.