Waking to the pre-dawn chorus of innumerable birds, I slowly edged out of bed and over to curtains drawn against the outside world. Hanging from ringed-rails, I swept them open with as much aplomb as I could muster, so as to witness my first sunrise over Lake Victoria, on this, the very beginning of my island adventure.
As the glow of dawn splashed the horizon in majestic hues of pink and violet, overhead the stars still shone with faint vigour, wrestling in an eternal struggle for dominance over the heavens above. Just beyond the protective confines of my room, I could hear waves breaking gently on the shoreline mere steps from the cozy balcony with its wicker chairs and coffee table. The perfect spot from which to survey the break of dawn over an immense lake, the largest of its kind in Africa.
Paradise
Cozied up on the patio set, I waited for the sun to make its appearance, my mind drifting to the previous day and the first moment I laid eyes upon Asilia’s Rubondo Island Camp. Straddling the bow of a sleek fishing boat, fitted with all the modern conveniences one could wish for, our captain guided us around a rocky pinnacle of ancient volcanic rock, and a new vista sprawled out before us. Slowly the camp and its inhabitants came into view, standing like sentinels along a golden beach, with forest and cottages all stretched out before me in the most picturesque scene I’d ever laid eyes upon. I had found paradise. Or rather, paradise had found me.
The echo of music to the rhythm of African drums crept over the lake, stretching out like gentle hands to caress us in their warmth. Our welcoming party was on the sandy shoreline in full force, not a person spared, as all were present and singing their joy at our approach. I was instantly both mesmerised and in love with the scene and its people. Friendly, open faces greeted us, one by one, as we stepped onto the golden sands, following a path past a crystalline pool and into a picturesque villa where refreshing drinks and a subtle briefing of things to come awaited.
As rays of golden light broke the horizon, they snapped me out of my reverie and back to the present on my wicker chair. Lake Victoria was ablaze with every hue and colour imaginable. This was pure magic at its finest. Glancing along the beach I could see others stirring on their patios, galvanised by the sight before them and the day ahead. All as one we returned to the splendour of our private villas to ready ourselves and gather our belongings. It was time to set out into the great beyond.
Into the forest
Following a hearty breakfast fit for royalty, our group of intrepid explorers moved to the waiting Land Cruiser, ready for our departure. Following a short safety brief, we headed to our first stop to collect an experienced ranger and were soon on our way again. Before long the guide pulled over into an alcove of the forest and exclaimed in excitement that the journey by road was over and that it was time to enter the forest on foot. As we walked, dappled sunlight broke through the magical forest in scattered rays, giving us a true sense of exploration and surrounded us with wonder. Trekking through the jungle along a well-treaded path, signs of animals passing were all around. Dollops of elephant dung here, a smattering of hippo dung there. We were not alone.
Before long, our ranger stopped us with a raised hand and pointed up, and there, in the canopy, were our first signs of our quarry. At least fourteen chimpanzee nests littered the shade above. Some looked like they were made by the hands of experts, while others, unpractised apprentices. We soon discovered that regardless of the quality, these beds took no longer than a few minutes to build, and that every evening this routine was repeated with the same beds never used twice.
A little further down the track we found more fresh signs of their passing with half-eaten fruits and berries littered along forest floor as it seemed they were eating on the move. I paused to consider this new revelation when suddenly, a chorus broke the enchanting calm around us. Chimpanzees, calling off into the forest somewhere beyond our sight, ever so close.
Chimps!
With military precision our rangers in unison turned us off the beaten track and into the jungle proper. Now that we knew where our quarry was, there was no stopping us. As we got closer the ruckus increased to surprising levels of intensity and resonated through my body. This was unbelievable, a moment I would never forget as I had not expected the sometimes-eerie silence to be broken with such a magnitude of force. Without seeing them, they were all around us, calling from every side when suddenly, a young chimpanzee popped out from behind a bush and plopped itself down in front of us with not a care in the world.
With elation we all unslung our backpacks and let them fall to the leaflitter. We followed suit, dropping to our knees so that we could share this special moment on even terms. To my mind, the young chimpanzee, known as Dogojanja, appreciated the gesture as he chose that moment to put on a show of playful antics, inching closer to use while expressing a tremendous amount of interest.
This was a golden moment not to be forgotten. As the minutes slipped by, other chimpanzees joined the supposed picnic under the canopy, though a little more cautiously and keeping a safer distance from their curious cousins. Dogojanja’s mother, Mgwesa, was one of these. She approached her son, I’m certain, to ensure he didn’t get up to his usual mischief of throwing sticks and leaflitter at unsuspecting houseguests. Sitting closely, she reaffirmed her bonds with her son, grooming him with the utmost care in a manner only a mother can do, and in the process, making him camera ready for the paparazzi.
Observing the chimpanzees I couldn’t help but reflect on the myriads of similarities to our own mannerisms. Gruff males boisterous in their daily tasks were ever observant of us, the intruders, while the females approached with patience and tolerance. It was the younglings that provided the most entertainment though, chasing each other with wanton abandon and shrieks of unbridled happiness. Life certainly is good for the chimps of Rubondo Island.
Before long, it was all over. A steady drumming sound reminiscent of tribal drums rang through the forest and heralded the end of our assembly, as the leader of the community summoned his charges with swift, powerful thumps against the hollow base of a giant fig tree.
Reflection
As they slowly melted into the undergrowth a sense of peace and fulfilment washed over our group. We had witnessed something extraordinary and, in its wake, a profound sense of loss akin to saying goodbye to loved ones that share an invisible bond. Hopefully this would not be my last encounter with these powerful, magnificent and undisputedly intelligent creatures.
Here were those that wanted, no needed, protection. Worth their weight in gold, their place in this world was undeniable. As I sauntered off through the bush, I found a spring in my step, safe in the knowledge that, for now, these unique forest inhabitants achieved just that on a little island called Rubondo.
Start planning your island adventure today.
