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The Custom of a Campfire

By Sean Matthewson

We go on safari as solo travellers, couples, and families, with activity-filled days inspired by the beautiful wildlife-rich surroundings. It is only at the end of the day where we truly engage with fellow travellers, exchanging stories, unpacking cultures, and making new friends. This is the custom of the campfire.

Oliver's Camp guest tent exterior, Tarangire National Park, Tanzania.
The luxuious comfort of the spacious guest tents at Oliver’s Camp.

Going on safari is a concept familiar to millions of people from all walks of life. The beautiful grind of early mornings and late evenings, interspersed with unforgettable encounters with nature, leaves an indelible mark on the masses. In fact, there are fewer people that don’t return for a second, third or fourth time than those that don’t return at all. Hence where the term, bitten by the safari bug, comes from.

But what is a day on safari like? From the moment you first awaken to the pre-dawn chorus and a hot cup of java, to campfires (more commonly known in the industry as the ‘bush TV’) and wild tales of hunts and close encounters. This blog is going to give light to this question for those still undecided about their first venture into the African wilderness, and a little bit of nostalgia for others that have already been.

The Early Start

Make no mistake, safari holidays are not a restful respite with pina coladas under beach umbrellas and late starts. On the contrary, expect to rise long before the sun comes up, and go to bed long after it has set. Safari is not for the faint of heart. It does not mean that this rigorous itinerary is without immense satisfaction. On the contrary, rising with the birds carries tremendous advantages, because there are two peak activity periods for wildlife. First light, and last light. Thus, I urge you to rise and shine as early as possible, a task made easier by Asilia’s friendly staff who will not only wake you but will also deliver that first cup of life-giving sustenance to make the process all the easier.

Sunrise breaking over Tarangire National Park, Tanzania.
Early starts are a part of being on safari, but are always worth it.

While sitting in the comfort of your room, sipping away, take a moment to listen to nature. Lions roaring, leopards grunting, hyenas cackling, are all clues to the whereabouts of your quarry for the day and is a small trick all guides have long since honed to their advantage. Think of dawn’s chorus as the first clues of the day that should never be ignored.

Once you have come to your senses and readied yourself for the morning, use the handheld radio in your room to summon an askari (the night watchman who is usually a Maasai warrior) to come and collect you. Walking around camp in pre-dawn light is not something you want to negotiate on your own, as there often still be interlopers wandering the pathways that only the most experienced of people can negotiate with. Bumping into lions, leopards and buffalo are a common occurrence throughout our camps between rooms and the main areas. While not always the case, signs of their passing in the previous night always abound and it is tremendously exciting to see tracks of big cats and other interlopers.

A lone buffalo on the grass plains of Tarangire National Park, Tanzania
Buffalo often pass through Oliver’s Camp under the cover of darkness.

Morning Adventures Await

Once arrived in the main area of the lodge, management and guides warmly greet our guests and escort them to the open-air game viewers for the first official adventure of the day. I say official because so much can happen between waking, morning coffee, escort and arriving at the viewer.

Game drives in Tarangire are extremely unpredictable and one never has the same experience twice. Lion sightings along the access road of Oliver’s are a very common occurrence, as the Oliver’s pride spend an inordinate amount of time in the area. I believe Oliver’s falls into the pride’s core territory.

If you manage to get out of the lodge areas, a trip to Silale Swamp can be very rewarding, especially as the day warms up and vast herds of elephants come down to the swamp to drink, followed by a clay dust bath, coating them in a splash of red and giving them their nickname, the red elephants of Tarangire National Park.

Elephants in Tarangire National Park, Tanzania.
Elephants appear red after clay dust bath in Tarangire National Park.

Halfway through the outing, guides select panoramic vistas as a good place to stop for packed breakfast, coffee, snacks and a leg stretch. As the sun begins to climb along with the temperature, wildlife becomes less active, photography conditions decline, and the call of the swimming begins to take over. Guides start making their way back to camp where lunch awaits, often upstairs on Oliver’s lookout deck. Satisfying, three course meals hit the mark and what follows can only be described as a food coma. One best spent lounging around the swimming pool alongside the on-site bar. And let’s not forget the hanging bridge that must be traversed in order to get to the pool. A long 200m bridge raised 10m above the ground offers a secure vantage point to scan the savanna.

The Oliver's footbridge, Oliver's Camp, Tarangire National Park.
The elevated footbridge provides a scenic viewpoint towards the Tarangire River.

Poolside to Fireside

Once a fair bit of digestive lounging has taken place, it’s time to head back to your luxury room with its slate floors and shower with a view. Spacious and with any amenities one could imagine for a rustic camp, the rooms are airy with private decks, sun loungers and an ever so comfortable bed! However, I digress. Yes, the rooms are exquisite, but that’s not why we are here! Following all the correct preparations, it’s time to escort ourselves back to the main area for a bit of high tea, or an early cocktail, before once again heading out on afternoon drive (a personal favourite). Honestly there is nothing more appealing than late afternoon’s golden light, the smell of a distant thunderstorm and a gin & tonic in hand as the sun goes down.

Guests around the campfire in Oliver's Camp, Tarangire National Park.
The custom of a campfire brings people together where new friendships are forged.

After a spectacular afternoon and evening out in the wilds of Tarangire it’s time to head back to camp for yet another dining experience and a little bit of bush TV. Prior to dinner guests are invited to sit around the campfire (strategically placed in the middle of camp) and reflect on the day past. A great time to intermingle with other guests and share stories of your adventures, or to chat with guides and coax them into sharing some of their most memorable stories of life in Africa, family, and wild encounters. All of this, of course, with any drink of choice in your hand. This moment, around the campfire making easy conversation with like-minded strangers, is where the importance of a campfire is brought to light. Connections are forged and new friends are made in this simple, yet ancient, meeting space.

Outdoor dining at Oliver's Camp, Tarangire National Park.
Outdoor dining by candlelight beneath an ancient baobab tree.

Finally, its time for dinner and this is where Oliver’s once again exceeds expectations with a diverse range of options for dining experiences. My personal favourite being under the baobab by lantern light. The soft ambiance under an ancient tree is an unforgettable experience. Dinner conversation sometimes interrupted by the shrill call of a nightjar in flight, or the rumbling roar of lions on the floodplain below put the proverbial cherry on the cake.

Satiated and full of dreams the day ends with yet another escort back to the rooms (hopefully uneventful) where a warm, cozy bed and soft pillows await.

Ready to be bitten by the safari bug? Or perhaps you’ve already been bitten and are ready for a new adventure. Get in touch with our expert consultants to plan a safari adventure that’s right for you.

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