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The Asilia Edit – The Primate Camps

Written By

John Baumann

Written By John Baumann

By John Baumann

The Asilia Edit is a curated collection of small group journeys designed to bring together like-minded travellers in some of East Africa’s most remarkable landscapes. Each itinerary has been carefully crafted to reflect a distinct safari style, balancing iconic experiences with Asilia’s signature approach to conservation, community, and authentic hospitality.

Sunrise views over the Lake Victoria, Tanzania.
Sunrise over the waters of Lake Victoria.

In our previous series, we unpacked each of the four itineraries of The Asilia Edit – The Classic, Untamed, Primate, and Signature Editions – exploring what makes them unique. In this new series, we turn our attention to the camps themselves: the foundations upon which each journey is built. Why these camps? What makes them the perfect fit for each itinerary? And how do they bring the essence of each edition to life?

The Primate Edition

With The Primate Edition, the focus shifts from open plains to dense forests, from sweeping vistas to intimate encounters. This is a journey defined by biodiversity, by the quiet patience of tracking, and by rare connections with some of the most intelligent and endangered species on Earth. At its core are two remarkable locations – Rubondo Island Camp and Erebero Hills – each offering a distinct yet complementary primate experience, shaped by their environments.

Rubondo Island Camp, Lake Victoria, Tanzania.
Rubondo Island Camp sits between dense forest and the waters of Lake Victoria.

Rubondo Island Camp: A Forest Adrift on Water

There are few places in East Africa that feel as unexpected as Rubondo Island. Set within the vast expanse of Lake Victoria, this forested island is a world unto itself – remote, immersive, and entirely unlike the traditional safari landscape.

Rubondo Island Camp sits lightly along the lakeshore, where the rhythm of the water becomes part of daily life. From the comfort of your room, the gentle lapping of waves replaces the distant calls of the savannah, creating an atmosphere that feels both calming and quietly wild.

A guest chalet at Rubondo Island Camp, Tanzania.
A private veranda provides the perfect spot to relax with views over the lake.

What makes Rubondo such a natural fit for The Primate Edition is its multi-layered ecosystem. The island’s dense forests are home to a remarkable range of species, from colourful birdlife and elusive small antelope to insects and elephants that move silently through the undergrowth. But it is the chimpanzees – reintroduced here as part of a pioneering conservation project – that define the experience.

Tracking chimps on Rubondo is an exercise in patience and immersion. The forest is thick, alive with sound and movement, and every step feels purposeful. When encounters happen, they are often fleeting and powerful—a reminder of the intelligence and complexity of these animals.

Yet, Rubondo is not solely about primates. The surrounding waters of Lake Victoria add an entirely different dimension to the stay. Catch-and-release fishing offers the chance to land Nile perch, while boating safaris reveal a world of spotted-neck otters, crocodiles, and hippos. On land, game drives introduce a surprising variety of wildlife, including colobus monkeys, giraffe, sitatunga, and monitor lizards. This diversity is what makes Rubondo so compelling. It is a place where forest and water converge, where the experience is constantly shifting, and where exploration feels boundless.

A chimpanzee on Rubondo Island, Tanzania.
An inquisitive chimpanzee keeps an eye on the trekking party.

As the starting point of The Primate Edition, Rubondo Island Camp sets a tone of curiosity and discovery. It encourages guests to look beyond the expected and to embrace a safari that is as much about ecosystems as it is about individual species.

Erebero Hills: Into the Heart of the Forest

From the island forests of Lake Victoria, the journey continues to one of the most iconic primate destinations in the world – Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. Here, perched on a steep hillside with sweeping views across the treetops, lies Erebero Hills. If Rubondo is defined by its diversity, Erebero is defined by its depth.

Aerial view of Erebero Hills, Bwindi, Uganda
On the edge of Bwindi Forest, Erebero Hills offers spectacular views.

The lodge’s position, directly opposite the dense vegetation of Bwindi, creates an immediate and powerful sense of place. Towering trees stretch across the horizon, their canopies forming a continuous green expanse that hints at the life within. This is a landscape that feels ancient, layered, and intensely alive.

For many, the primary draw here is gorilla trekking. The experience of moving through the forest – navigating steep terrain, guided by trackers who read the land with extraordinary skill – is both physically demanding and emotionally rewarding. Time spent with a habituated gorilla family is often described as transformative, offering a rare and humbling connection with one of our closest relatives.

But Erebero Hills ensures that the experience extends far beyond a single trek. Bwindi is recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, celebrated for its exceptional biodiversity. The forest is home to countless plant species, rare insects, and an extraordinary array of birdlife. Simply spending time within it – listening, observing, and absorbing – reveals layers of complexity that go far beyond the headline experience.

A gorilla in Bwindi Forest, Uganda.
Gorilla trekking in the ancient forest of Bwindi is a unique and humbling experience.

The lodge also creates meaningful opportunities to connect with the local Batwa community, whose history is deeply intertwined with the forest. Through guided visits, guests gain insight into traditional knowledge, cultural heritage, and ongoing efforts in conservation and reforestation.

At the lodge, there is space to rest and reflect. A visit to the mushroom house or syntropic farm offers a glimpse into sustainable food production, while a hike to a nearby waterfall provides a quieter moment of exploration. For those seeking relaxation, the spa and heated swimming pool offer comfort set against the dramatic backdrop of the forest.

Erebero Hills serves as the natural culmination of The Primate Edition. It takes the themes introduced on Rubondo – immersion, biodiversity, and connection – and deepens them into something more profound.

A Batwa member creates fire, Bwindi, Uganda.
Time spent with the Batwa provides unique insight into their culture and heritage.

A Different Kind of Safari

What sets The Primate Camps apart is how they redefine the safari experience.

  • Rubondo Island Camp introduces a world where forest and water intertwine, offering a dynamic and exploratory start to the journey.
  • Erebero Hills brings focus and depth, anchoring the experience in one of the most important ecosystems on the continent.

Together, they shift the narrative away from wide-open game viewing and towards something more intimate and reflective. This is a safari that rewards patience, curiosity, and a willingness to engage with the environment on its own terms.

Textures of green from Bwindi Forest, Uganda.
Bwindi Impenetrable Forest is rich in biodiversity.

There is also a strong sense of purpose that runs through both camps. From chimpanzee conservation on Rubondo to gorilla protection and community partnerships in Bwindi, the experiences here are deeply connected to the preservation of these fragile ecosystems. For those willing to step into the forest, to slow down, and to look a little closer, this itinerary reveals a side of East Africa that is as powerful as it is unforgettable.

In the end, The Primate Camps offer a journey that feels both rare and meaningful. It is not defined by the number of sightings or the scale of the landscape, but by the quality of the encounters and the depth of the connection.

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